A most excellent adventure...

A most excellent adventure...
The things that take priority in my backpack
Showing posts with label South Africa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label South Africa. Show all posts

Thursday, August 5, 2010

My last post

This is my last blog posting. I am going to get on a plane at 1:50 PM tomorrow to leave for Joburg. I leave Joburg at 6PM, will stop over in Dakar, then eventually arrive in DC at 6AM. It will be 15 hours of darkness. I will get into Houston around 11 AM and then will have a drive to Corsicana afterwards. Nice long 30 hour travel period.

Camps Bay on my birthday.

This last week at work there has been a fairly substantial assignment I have been working on which, apparently, I was supposed to be working on for quite a while. News to me.


My birthday was Tuesday. It was also Cary's last day, and ODAC gave us a very nice going away lunch. It also counted as my birthday lunch, as Cary had bought me a cake earlier.

I cut out of work an hour early and met up with Hirsh. We went to Camps bay with a Frisbee and some wine Cary got me for my birthday. We threw the Frisbee and watched the sun set.


After watching the sunset, we went down to the waterfront and Cary joined us at a nice restaurant outside. I had Kudu, Springbok, and Impala venison cutlets.

Fola and a date joined us, and we went to see Inception. Because there is an independent theater right next to Saasveld that shows old movies, and the fact that we had seen no movie posters or movie theaters, we just assumed that South Africa didn't get American movies for months. This is, obviously, a ridiculous thought. There are Aston Martin and Maseratti shops at the mall at the waterfront, I think that they would have movie theaters.
On the day of my 21st birthday, I went to see The Dark Knight, the last Christopher Nolan film. I figured it was a good birthday activity to keep up.
So now it is just Hirsh and me left in Cape Town. Hirsh is staying here for another week or so.
22 was a good year. Stressful, but I made a ton of new friends and saw a large part of the world I had never been exposed to before.

This trip has been excellent. I went to 8 World Cup matches and watched almost all of the tournament. I made quite a few friends and became closer to several of my Harvard buddies. My roommates and I roadtripped across country. I learned a lot from my position at ODAC, wrote part of an Amicus brief, watched Parliament and possibly influenced some legislation, learned a ton about South Africa, played with lion cubs, saw the Cape of Good Hope, elephants, giraffes, hippos, zebra, impala, rhino, and sharks. I know Cape Town really well, better than I know Boston or Dallas. And Harvard paid for much of it. Kingman out.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Red Red Wine- Wine Tasting in Stellenbosh

We went wine tasting on Saturday. The Western Cape includes the wine country surrounding Stellenbosh. We took an hour-long train ride out there and paid 400R for a 4 farm tour including lots of wine tasting. Lots.

Simonsur- #1
He opened this champagne with a sword. Which is awesome.
And a random Chameleon loved this guy.
The second place had something about goats in play.
Someplace dealing with wine production.
Everywhere we go, David wants a picture of his Barack Obama pose.
Cary is a super lightweight, so I played cleanup on her wine. There are sober kids in America.
Farm 3
I think this is actually what Hirsh's world looks like.

Farm 4. Cary still can't relax.
I put the camera away after this.

The wine was great. And inexpensive. But bringing it home would be a huge pain, so I will probably just buy it in the States.

We took a very sketch train ride back to Cape Town after grabbing a pint with some English guys we met studying at University of Edinburgh.

After the Burger Joint, it was definitely bedtime.

On the Job

After the World Cup ended, work has been a bit of a drag. The place where I work is very loud with everyone shouting into phones, and I have taken to wearing headphones.

The Protection of Information Bill is going through Parliament, and ODAC is one of several organizations trying to change some of the awful parts of the bill. The ANC has a huge majority in the parliament, and can basically do whatever they want. Watching them, most seem to be like the itinerant members of city councils or local governments who stridently and incoherently attempt to retain and secure their own power by railing against the past. Under the auspices of 'national interest' the government should be able to prevent any information from being released that it chooses. There was much comment about 'democracy being built on trust' and how the government should be trusted to do the right thing.

It is as if reacting to the exposure of all the rampant corruption in SA, they are trying to limit exposure rather than cut corruption. There were no claims of libel by the media or anything like that. This blog posting sums up my fascination well.

It strikes me as the type of bill that the Nixon administration would have tried to push if the Republican clout had been so substantial to eliminate possible impeachment proceedings and Tricky Dick had not resigned. There are not enough people angry about this. Imagine if Woodward and Bernstein had been publicly villainized by the government?

The ANC reminds me of the worst part of both parties. The xenophobic nationalism and appeal to cultural superiority of right-wing Republicans with the big government, race-conscious, and poor-pandering populism of the Democrats. In other words, the exact opposite of the brand of sensible libertarianism that I believe in and will stunt any political ambition.

Here is The Economist on the ANC.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Robben Island.

Hirsh, Nick, Dave, and Juberg went on a road-trip up the Garden Route and the coast of South Africa over the next week. This left Cary, David, and me in Cape Town for the week. It was really restful, and we went out to dinner at a few nice places.

On the 17th, Cary and I decided to take the earliest boat to Robben Island. It is probably the biggest destination activity in Cape Town. We had wanted to go the week before, but had been rained out. The boat over is a catamaran, so if the waves are too rough, then the tours are simply cancelled. The world cup prices were equivalent to the summer prices, but over the past few weeks, everything has returned to their off-season norms. The tickets were 100 Rand each.

The catamaran held 300 people, but the large boat still pitched enough on the waves to create that roller-coaster feeling that left some people sick.

The Stadium. Cloudy days are so awesome for pictures.
Signal Hill and the Lion's head. In the foreground you can see ducks skimming the surface.
Moored at Robben Island
The view was spectacular, but it felt awkward posing there.
Part of the workground. Where the draft of 'Long Walk to Freedom' was hidden.
Unused World War II artillery.
Cape Town on the way home.

Robben Island is an incredible place. A UNESCO World Heritage sight. It has been used by the inhabitants of the Western Cape as a location for 'undesirables' for centuries.
I had just read More than Just a Game: Soccer Against Apartheid, so I was fairly familiar with the history of the island.
During colonial times, a Zulu leader named Makana was exiled here, and perished escaping back to the mainland.
Makana is the name chosen for the Football Association that the prisoners put together. The league gave purpose to many of the players and is an incredible story.
During the entire history of the apartheid political prison, not a single prisoner committed suicide. Guards did.
On Nelson Mandela's 89th birthday, soccer players and former members of the teams of Makana shot 89 goals into the old goalposts on Robben Island, and FIFA inducted the organization into its realm as an honorary member. It is the first independent organization ever inducted.

An exile of the political struggle gave us a bus tour of the island. A former inmate of the prison gave us a tour of the interior.
Visiting Robben Island is heavy, even if you are not connected to the history. I was very frustrated by the Zimbabwean group of young men horseplaying around, talking on their cell phones and taking pictures.
I refer the troubling tourism problem to an excellent post by my friend Daniel Saver about his trip to the killing fields.
Going to school in Memphis, where racial tension from '68 still boils, I am used to the dialogue. The National Civil Rights Museum gives me more of a sense of complicit guilt than Robben does, of course.
But the prison was BUILT in the mid-sixties. And the percentage of blacks in America is equal to the percentage of whites in South Africa.
Jim Crow was awful no doubt, but Apartheid was somewhere between Jim Crow and slavery. And this is ended in the early 1990s, while I was alive.
I hate race-conscious debate--as it inherently degrades the principles of individual accountability and choice by implying that you are accountable for what you have not chosen--but I can understand the negativity I have experienced from blacks and coloureds while I have been in Africa.

Robben Island was a good reminder of some of the less shiny parts of the experience, much like the township run, but I don't need to visit again.

Monday, July 26, 2010

World Cup Final. 8 Hours in the Fan Fest

We arrived at the Fan Fest by 2:15 for an 8:30 kickoff.
The vuvuzela orchestra was arguably the worst thing ever.
City Hall
Nick. Repping the Dutch.
The only place we could find to sit.
I should work for Cocacola. Look at how adorable these kids are.

People must not have fireworks much here. They FREAKED when these went off.

The crowd was pretty mixed.
When Mandela came out, the entire crowd erupted.


And thats the World Cup

This guy was standing next to me. Turned out to be from Memphis. A friend of Alex Iberg's.

The last of our 25 or so games watched together.
ESPANA PENDEJA!

Penguins and Babboons






"Jim, get a picture of me looking pensive"

Get the Monkey off your back!